Friday, March 15, 2013

Slow sewing

Last week, Peter of Male Pattern Boldness mused about slowing down  the sewing process. I guess he, like me, is usually a pedal-to-the-metal speed demon sewer! My sewing room compares to a sweatshop in productivity. Personally, I've had no desire to slow down, but lately I have been forced to by two forces. The first being work and family obligations and the second: Burda downloads!!

I decided to make this jacket:

Its model #113 and called the Illusion Jacket. It looks like a vest worn over a long tee, but the long sleeves are actually attached. The body and cap sleeves are made from a wool suiting and the long sleeves are made in ponte.
I downloaded the pattern, and since I own a 42 inch wide printer, I was able to print out the pattern pieces on one long sheet instead of tiling and taping a million smaller sheets together like mere mortal sewers.
After consulting Burda's size chart and measuring the pattern (there are no finished garments measurements), I chose a size, added an FBA and shortened the jacket and sleeves. Then I added the seam allowances-- What a pain!!!

A tangled mess
I cut and sewed a muslin, which was too big. I also decided to use the shorter version.

I figured it would be easier reprint the pattern rather than remark the already cut up and taped up pattern. Then I thought "I've got a brain, why not use it?" I opened the pdf file in Adobe Illustrator, traced my size, shortened it, did the FBA and slope shoulder adjustment all on the computer. And with one simple command added the seams allowances! And the best part? I could do all this sitting on my ass!!!

Doesn't this look a lot more orderly?!
So after a week, I finally cut the main fabric out last night. I still need the lining and ponte. Hopefully, if nobody bothers me, I might be able to power through this project this weekend.


  1. It's an intriguing pattern. I hope everyone leaves you alone so you can conquer this pattern.

  2. Oh, that's great that you used Illustrator to make your changes. I have considered trying it with my Corel Draw vector program but need someone to hold my hand. I'll be looking for tutorials online when I get time. Let me know if you have any suggestions.

  3. ooh. this is one I was immediately drawn to in the US edition of the magazine.