Friday, September 27, 2013

I had my suspitions

I bought this pattern (V8910) on impulse recently when JoAnn was having a sales on Vogues. I'm not sure if it's new to the catalog or not, but I didn't see any reviews on PR for it. It looked simple enough & has a nice feminine shape to it. I love a shawl collar and especially liked the addition of the pleat in it.

It wasn't until I got ready to cut it out that I noticed it's cut entirely on the bias. I spent a couple days thinking about if I should do an FBA on it or not. (View C does have a dart in it). I decided not to, reasoning the downward drag from the bias would make it difficult to determine the proper placement and that it might continue to lower itself over time anyway.
Soldiering on, I cut it out using this vintage suiting fabric that I didn't care a whole lot about and started sewing. I have to admit I was somewhat perplexed by the directions for sewing the pleat in the collar, but I figured it out.

After the front and back were joined together it was actually looking and fitting pretty nice. I then let it hang out on my dress form a couple of days to relax. Oddly, according to the directions, it was not yet the time to put the sleeves*. It was time to put in the lining. This necessitated a trip to the fabric store for lining. (I think I left the pattern envelope there, so if anyone finds it, please throw it away for me.)
Now, I've done a lot of sewing and I can't say I've ever seen a Vogue pattern attach a facing like this: the front and front lining are cut from the same pattern piece and the facing is placed on top of the lining and stitched onto it applique style!! Then the assembled lining is stitched to the assembled jacket. This is when things started to go horribly wrong! The suiting fabric had about 20% more give on the bias than the lining fabric and the lining ended up about 2 inches too short!

Maybe I could start a new trend: the balloon hem on a jacket!

*At least I didn't waste any time putting the sleeves in. Another odd thing about this pattern is the way the sleeves go in. The assembled sleeve and lining are joined at the cuff, then the sleeve is set in keeping the lining free, and the lining is hand sewn into the sleeve opening of the lining. I have seen this before and I just don't care for this method.

I am really ambivalent about trying this one again. It really fit quite nicely before the lining went in. Usually when I get a bad taste in my mouth about a pattern, my impulse is to just get rid of it! Its not like I don't have a dozen other jacket patterns I can try.


  1. Yes, this pattern seems to have issues. Some time ago Ann Rowley (who was the British Sewing Bee) made this pattern. She posted her comments on Stitcher's Guide. But you can see her set of annotated flickr photos here:

    1. Very interesting. Thanks for pointing me to Ann's pictures and notes. After I wrote this post, I was thinking I should get the pattern out of the trash and make it with a heavy knit but cut it on the straight of grain. It would eliminate what I think is the main problem: the lining. Do you think that would be worth a try?

    2. Yes, it might be worth a try. I bought that pattern when it came out, too. At some point I'd like to try and make it work.

  2. Such a shame it did this, but at least you know it was the pattern's fault! Not sure how it received it's Easy rating, it seems to be a bit past that level. I think a heavier knit fabric would work, but follow how Ann constructed it for best results ... J

  3. Thanks to you for documenting your frustrating experience. I too like the loks of this pattern and think you ponte knit idea is perfect for it....and I'll be stealing that idea:-) I like the bias idea but bias and a lining that doesn't hang loose does seem like a recipe for disaster. I vaguely remember that Marcy Tilton's bias idea is to press the heck out of the bias piece and then retrim the fashion fabric if it has grown beyond the cutting line. It keeps the bias fluidity but takes out some of that ballooning effect. Since I have never done a bias jacket, only bias dresses, I cannot vouch for that method personally.